Hasanabad Square in Tehran

Can you believe that Hasanabad Square in Tehran with all of its old prestigious buildings that remind you of Europe was once a refuge for Genies? We do not believe it either but the rumor that these invisible creatures were nearby was once a source of trouble for the bathhouse at the north-west side of the square to the point that it nearly put the bathhouse out of business. The bathhouse was located in a place where currently there is a fire station building. The Hasanabad locals say they used to hear voices saying “it burns” “it burns” on Friday nights. Before the construction of the bathhouse, the place was a well-known cemetery inside which mostly the bodies of the Cholera victims in Tehran (around the year1931), some of the martyrs from the Constitutionalist Movement and the freedom fighters were buried. So, the locals used to believe that the bathhouse was located on a holy grave to which the sound of “it burns, it burns” belonged. This urban myth of the presence of genies inside brought about the bathhouse’s financial stagnation to the point that this craftily built facility did not turn in any profits when it was rented to anyone, and they had no way but to return it to the owner. Finally, in 1933, the bathhouse and the unforsaken nearby land at the north-west side of Hasanabad Square in Tehran which was known as the remainder of the cemetery, were turned into Tehran’s Fire Extinguishing Center.

 

Among the many famous figures who were buried in Hassanabad Cemetery were Mirza Reza Kermani (who killed Naser al-Din Shah Qajar), Mirza Muhammad Kalhor the famous Qajar calligrapher who died from Cholera, and the severed head of Mirza Kuchak Khan-e-Jangali. Currently, there are memorial statues of Mirza Muhammad Kalhor and Mirza Kouchak Khan-e-Jangali installed at Hasanabad Square.

 

Perhaps, the sound of the Genies or the spirits is no longer heard from this side of the Square but the sirens of Fire Engines are heard from time to time. This side of the square is still a reminder of the Iranian heroes’ sacrifices and in 2017 the statue of a lion was dedicated from the Bakhtiari tribes to the families of the killed firefighters in Plasco Building. The statue was installed in front of the Fire Station in Hasanabad Square.

 

But where is Hassanabad and how was this building constructed? Hasanabad Square in Tehran is in the central part of the city and leads to Imam Khomeini Square (Toopkhaneh Square) from the East, to Horr Square from the West, to the Jomhuri Square from the North, and to the Abu Saeed Square from the South. The Hassanabad District, the north-west side of which was considered one of Tehran’s best Qajar Streets had one of the most extensive gardens in the Capital. This garden belonged to Mirza Yousef Ashtiani, known as Mostowfi ol-Mamalek, who was Naser al-Din Shah Qajar’s Chancellor. Some people believe this area was named after the only son of Mirza Yousef whom God gifted to him when he was 70 years old; some other say since Mirza Yousef’s father was also named Hassan, he named this 20 Hectare area after both his father and his son.

 

After the old buildings at the intersection of Sepah St. (Imam Khomeini St.) and Hafiz St. were demolished by an order from Tehran’s mayor at the time, Karim Aqa Buzarjamhar, instead of Hassanabad Intersection, a Square with the same name was built whose construction took nearly 6 years. The Square’s design is credited to someone by the name of Qelich Baqelian who also built 4 other similar structures, each having two domes with half-arch windows, columns, and half columns and fences. These structures were constructed in the style of the western architecture reminiscent of the Renaissance and the Neo-Classic Period and under the supervision of the Armenian engineer and architect Leon Tadosian.

 

Since it had 8 domes, Hasanabad Square in Tehran was also known as the 8 Domes Square. During the Second Pahlavi Era and with a plan by Mohsen Foroughi, the building for a Melli Bank was constructed on the south-east side of the Square, but fortunately in 2001 and after consistent effort for years finally the old façade of the Square was copied on the Bank’s building as well and so the square got its proportion and unique style of architecture back.

In 1951 and after a lot of efforts from Senator Doctor Mahdi Malekzadeh, the eldest son of Malek ol Motekalemin (one of the Constitutionalist members) the Square was named after his father and a statue of Malik ol Motekalemin which was built by Abolhassan Sedighi was installed in the Square. After Malekzadeh’s death in 1957 the satue was removed and transported to the city’s depot immediately. After a while there were talks of returning the statue back to the Square but strangely enough the statue had gone missing.

 

Hasanabad Square in Tehran is now the center for buying any type of woolen textures and threads. The Square’s southern side is the center for selling new-born baby products and the North side is dedicated to selling office furniture and household wooden products. It is interesting to know that “Hasanabad Marketplace” which is currently the center for selling industrial equipment, locks and bolts etc. was once a common place to watch movies since in 1982 when Mihan Cinema was hosting the art enthusiasts at this side of the Square.

Hasanabad Square was renamed to Shahrivar 31st Square after the Iranian Islamic Revolution but again after some time the good old Hasanabad name was put back on the Square.

 

9/6/2023 1:32:58 AM