Tekyeh Moaven al-Molk in Kermanshah

Its walls are like a gallery; full of tiles that narrate a lot of stories about history of politics and religion in Iran. Tiles used in Moaven al-Molk Tekyeh in Kermanshah have made it totally different from other religious buildings. Usually geometric and arabesque patterns were used in most of the old Persian religious buildings, but we see many variations of forms and designs, simple seven-tone tiles, and even bas-reliefs in different dimensions at Moaven al-Molk Tekyeh. Perhaps we are not wrong if we claim that the images of these tiles are illustrations of Iran’s history.

 

Hussein Khan Moaven al-Ra'aya built Moaven al-Molk Tekyeh in the last years of Qajar era. The first part of this building started with a Hoseinieh whose beautiful mirrors were unfortunately bombed and ruined by anti-constitutionalists. A few years later, Hussein Khan's brothers decided to renovate and expand the building so they bought and rebuilt it in three parts: The first part remained as Hoseinieh; the second part was named Zeinabieh; and the third part that was the biggest one was named Abbasieh. All these names are derived from real names of Karbala heroes.

 

Zeinabieh has two floors. The second floor is for women and the first floor for men. The titles used here are like tableaus narrating the stories of Karbala and Ashura. Every year on Ashura, mourning precessions come to Hoseinieh and Zeinabieh to mourn together.

 

On some of the walls, pictures of religious and Islamic stories like the sacrifice of the Prophet Ishmael, of Ghadir Khumm story, Mi'raj of the Prophet Mohammad, of the poems from Muhtasham Kashani, of historical kings, heroes and legendary mythological characters, etc. can be seen.

 

Abbasieh building of Tekyeh Moaven al-Molk in Kermanshah is a bit different from other sections and that’s because Moaven al-Molk and his family actually lived in this building. Its tiles focus mainly on social subjects. In some part of the paintings, several historical monuments of Iran like Persepolis, Taq Bostan, religious mansions, European architecture (as it was described in books and seen on the postcards) have been drawn as well. National and religious characters of the Qajar era, the narration of the story of Joseph, Solomon, simple lifestyle of the dervish in five canvases, the images of kings in different periods, religious places like Imam Reza and Imam Ali's shrines, and the narration of Karbala stories can also be seen there.

 

To build this Tekyeh, experts and artisans had to stay and live in Kermanshah for a while. The drawings were done by Abulghasem Mani Kermanshahi, the tiles were made by Hasan Kashi Paz Tehrani, and the architect was Ostad (Master) Muhammad or as his nickname was "Ostad Siah" (The Black Master). The signatures and the names of masters who worked in this Tekyeh can be seen on the tiles. A tile furnace was built there as well to make the job of the tilework masters more convenient.

 

According to the documentation on the walls, the tiling project of this Tekyeh began in around 1941 and also in some parts we see the date 1958. Hence, it seems that it took seventeen years to finish the tilework of the entire Tekyeh.

 

As Moaven al-Molk's family could not afford to pay for maintenance and other expenses of this Tekyeh, they temporarily gave it up to a religious school. But the images on some of the tiles were unfortunately damaged by the careless school students. When Moaven's family learned about this, they decided to take the Tekyeh back and by setting some terms gave it to Iran’s Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts and Tourism Organization. However, some parts of Tekyeh still belong to Moaven's family to mark Muharram’s rituals every year.

 

The rituals of Sham-e-Ghariban (the night of Ashura) observed in Moaven al-molk Tekyeh is something really special and has a wonderful atmosphere. People from all over Kermanshah go there to attend the occasion. A part of the building has been tuned into a museum in which some Ta'zieh props can been found. Some of the museum’s items such its samovar are used on Ashura every year.

 

 

 

8/31/2023 11:28:24 PM